Captivating Croatia – An Explorer Chick Multiadventure

I’m not entirely sure when a trip to Croatia first captured my imagination, but I know it began after I saw a breathtaking photograph of Plitvice Lakes National Park. From that moment, the idea of exploring the country’s natural beauty took hold. Two companies I was familiar with offered multi-adventure tours of Croatia: Wild Women Expeditions, a Canadian-based company I had traveled with before, and their U.S. competitor, Explorer Chick. I carefully compared both itineraries, and while I had thoroughly enjoyed Wild Women’s hiking trip through Scotland, it was Explorer Chick’s Croatian adventure that ultimately won me over. Their itinerary included a cycling excursion and a via ferrata — though I suspected it wouldn’t be quite as intense as the one Colin and I tackled in the Dolomites! I booked the trip in November 2024 for September 2025 and decided to extend my journey with an additional four days in Dubrovnik on my own after the tour concluded. During several activities, I either didn’t have my phone with me or was too busy participating to take pictures myself. Fortunately, our Explorer Chick guide, Mary, set up a shared Google Drive where we could all upload our photos — an invaluable resource and a wonderful way to capture the spirit of our adventure from multiple perspectives. As with previous trips that combined guided tours with independent travel, I loved the balance of shared experiences and solo exploration. What follows is the story of that group journey (separate post for my solo time in Dubrovnik).

Day 0 Boston to Zagreb, Croatia

The adventure began on September 5, 2025, with a long but uneventful drive to Boston Logan Airport. Twelve days before departure, on a whim, I decided to place a bid for a business class upgrade on Lufthansa Airlines for the Boston–Munich leg of my journey. Two days before my flight, I learned my bid had been accepted — which meant, for the very first time, I would be flying business class, complete with a fully lie-flat seat and access to Lufthansa’s airport lounge. The trip, however, got off to a slightly rocky start. After waiting in the TSA PreCheck line, I was unexpectedly flagged and redirected to regular security, which was crowded and chaotic. Fortunately, security at Logan has improved in recent years — even in the standard line, shoes can stay on, and there’s no need to remove liquids or electronics. I suspect I was flagged because I had purchased a one-way ticket with Lufthansa (my return flight from Dubrovnik was on British Airways) and I wasn’t checking any luggage.

Lufthansa Business Class

Our flight, LH425, was delayed by nearly an hour and ultimately departed at 9:00 PM. I was initially concerned I might miss my connection in Munich, but we made up time in the air and landed only five minutes behind schedule. Business class proved to be quite a treat. Alcoholic beverages ranging from champagne and wine to beer and cocktails were freely offered. Dinner was a full multi-course affair, complete with a salad starter, a main course, dessert, and even two separate boxes of chocolates. We began with a warm bag of mixed nuts, and breakfast was served before landing. The spacious seats offered ample legroom and could recline fully flat, making the overnight flight far more comfortable than any I’d experienced before. My only minor complaint was the 2–2–2 seating configuration on the Airbus A380. Because I had an aisle seat next to the window passenger, the kind German woman seated beside me had to climb over my reclined seat whenever she needed to get up.

My connection in Munich was smooth and straightforward. We landed at Terminal 2 and from there I took a tram to the Satellite Terminal, passed through immigration, and continued on to my departure gate. Boarding for the short flight to Zagreb was efficient, though we were held at the gate for about 20 minutes before taxiing — and then delayed an additional half hour on the tarmac due to a drone detected in the airport’s airspace, which temporarily halted all arrivals and departures. Once cleared, the flight proceeded without incident, and we landed about 50 minutes behind schedule. Because it was a short flight, we never climbed to a very high altitude, which made for stunning aerial views as we soared over the Austrian Alps.

Flying over the Austrian Alps between Munich and Zagreb

We touched down in Zagreb at 1:30 PM. I waited about 45 minutes in the baggage claim area for two of my fellow Explorer Chick travelers (who I had never met before), who were arriving on a connecting flight from Paris. Together, we shared a taxi to Hotel Dubrovnik, located in the heart of the Old Town. On my previous group trips, I’d always shared a room, but this time I decided to upgrade to a solo room — a decision I was quite happy with. My room overlooked Ban Josip Jelačić Square and its iconic statue.

View from my room at Hotel Dubrovnik in Old Town Zagreb

Once I’d settled in, I ventured out for a three-mile walk around the city. I wasn’t entirely sure what I was looking at — we had a guided tour scheduled for the following day — but it was a pleasant introduction nonetheless. Much of the city was under construction, the lingering result of a 5.8 magnitude earthquake in 2020 that had damaged many historic buildings, including the Zagreb Cathedral.

Zagreb Cathedral

For dinner, I kept things simple and picked up a bagel sandwich to eat back in my room — I’ve never particularly enjoyed dining alone. Though exhausted from the journey, I made an effort to stay awake until a reasonable hour to help adjust to the time difference. To my surprise, I slept remarkably well that night, all things considered.

Day 1 Zagreb

After a restful night’s sleep, I was ready to begin exploring Zagreb. The Hotel Dubrovnik offered an excellent breakfast buffet, though it was bustling with guests that morning. After breakfast, I set out on my own adventure, determined to navigate Zagreb’s electric tram system. Purchasing an all-day ticket was easy — just four euros from the tobacco stand outside the hotel. The zoo was situated within a larger public park filled with walking trails and small ponds. Entry cost just four euros, and I spent about two hours wandering the exhibits. Many of the animals seemed rather subdued, which made me feel a bit sad; I consoled myself with the hope that they were rescues unable to return to the wild. I had to laugh at the irony of traveling all the way to Croatia only to see a California sea lion and a grizzly bear.

Meerkat at the Zagreb Zoo

Back near the hotel, I treated myself to a tiramisu gelato (one of many over this trip) and took a short break in my room before heading out again in the afternoon. My next stop was the Zagreb Botanical Garden. While it wasn’t particularly remarkable, it offered a peaceful place to stroll and enjoy a quiet afternoon. On my way back, I stopped at the Chocolate Museum to pick up some sweet souvenirs for my coworkers. Zagreb has no shortage of quirky and intriguing museums — among them the Museum of Hangovers, the Museum of Broken Relationships, the Museum of Lost Tales, and Hahahouse: the Museum of Laughter — and I made a mental note to visit some of them on a future trip.

Zagreb Botanical Gardens

At 6:00 PM, I met the rest of our group — twelve other Explorer Chicks — along with our trip leader, Mary, and our local Croatian guide, Ines, in the hotel lobby. More than half of the women had previously traveled with Explorer Chick, and there was a warm, easy camaraderie right from the start. Mary greeted each of us with a small lavender sachet — a nod to Croatia’s famous lavender — and a pink luggage tag to help identify our bags. That evening, we walked about twenty minutes to Konoba Didov San, a charming local restaurant, where we shared a family-style feast of traditional Croatian cuisine. The spread was plentiful and delicious: savory donuts filled with fresh cheese, flatbread drizzled with olive oil and layered with spinach, a crisp cold salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, and cheese, tender veal with roasted potatoes, and hearty pork with gnocchi. There were also plenty of vegetable dishes for the two vegetarians in our group. For dessert, we were served Rožata, Croatia’s version of crème brûlée — sweet, silky, and the perfect ending to the meal.

Delicious meal at Konoba Didov San

Conversation flowed easily throughout dinner as we got to know one another. Our group ranged in age from late twenties and early thirties up to sixty-nine, and it was immediately clear that despite our diverse backgrounds, we all shared the same adventurous spirit.

Day 2 Parenzana Trail – Grožnjan to Motovun via e-bike

We checked out of Hotel Dubrovnik at 7:30 AM and set off on a three-hour drive — divided between two vans — to the charming hilltop village of Grožnjan on the Istrian Peninsula. This region of Croatia is renowned for its wine, olive oil, and, of course, its truffles. Our first stop was an olive oil tasting hosted by a local family. In a charmingly intimate touch, we used the family’s own bathroom for a quick rest stop, queuing up in their kitchen — an experience that felt more like visiting friends than being on a tour. Afterward, we had about half an hour to explore the village on our own. Grožnjan is a haven for artists, filled with small galleries and boutiques. I picked up a few postcards and stopped at the post office to buy Croatian stamps for my growing collection.

Olive oil tasting in Grožnjan

Lunch was served on the terrace at Artegrana, with sweeping views of the countryside. I chose the pasta with truffles in a rich cheese sauce — decadent and delicious — while others raved about the hearty beef stew. The meal began with a classic caprese salad and ended on a sweet note with apple strudel and cheesecake.

Lunch at Artegrana

After lunch, it was time to pick up our e-bikes for a 10-mile ride along the Parenzana Trail, traveling from Grožnjan to Motovun. Once a narrow-gauge railway connecting Trieste, Italy (the very port from which my great-grandparents emigrated to the USA) to Poreč, Croatia, the line operated from 1902 to 1935. Today, the 76-mile-long trail winds through Italy, Slovenia, and Croatia, passing vineyards, olive groves, and even original railway tunnels. Barely a quarter-mile into our ride, we encountered our first mishap. We had been advised to pack headlamps but weren’t told they’d be essential on this stretch. Normally, the tunnel lights are motion-activated, but for reasons unknown, they weren’t working that day. Many of us were still wearing our sunglasses, and about a quarter of the way in, the tunnel became pitch black. The sudden darkness caused a small pileup — nothing serious, but enough to get our adrenaline pumping. After that, the rest of the ride went smoothly, and we were assured there would be no more tunnels that day.

Starting out on the Parenzana Trail from Grožnjan

The scenery was spectacular — rolling vineyards, silvery olive groves, and sweeping countryside views — but I found it frustrating that we weren’t able to stop for photos. I wasn’t sure why we were rushing, and we mentioned our disappointment to the guide for the following day. The e-bikes themselves were fantastic, but the trail was rough — more suited to mountain bikes, with loose gravel and large rocks that required constant attention.

Heading towards Motovun (on the hill)

A portion of the Parenzana Trail was closed due to a landslide earlier in the spring, so we detoured onto a paved road — a welcome reprieve from the rugged terrain. We arrived in Motovun around 5:00 PM. Perched high on a hilltop, this small walled town is best known as the birthplace of legendary race car driver Mario Andretti and for its internationally recognized summer film festival. Because of the afternoon heat, I decided to postpone my shower and explore the town first. I joined two other Explorer Chicks for a walk along the medieval ramparts — five euros well spent for the stunning panoramic views. Afterward, the three of us relaxed with a glass of wine on our hotel terrace before I returned to my tiny but cozy room at Villa Borgo for a quick shower.

View from the terrace at Villa Borgo
Inside the walls of Motovun

Dinner that evening was served al fresco on the patio of the Hotel Kaštel Restaurant. I started with a refreshing orangecello spritz, followed by a silky cauliflower soup and a perfectly cooked pork tenderloin accompanied by roasted vegetables and potatoes. Dessert was a creamy panna cotta. Most of our dinners throughout the trip were quite late, usually beginning between 7:00 and 8:00 PM, which made it difficult to go to bed immediately after such indulgent meals. I used those quiet post-dinner hours to edit my photos and share updates.

Day 3 Parenzana Trail – Motovun to Kaštelir via e-bike

We began the day quite literally above the clouds, enjoying breakfast on the terrace as the morning mist drifted below us. The spread was hearty and delicious, but the star of the meal was undoubtedly the croissants — filled with either chocolate or apricot and served piping hot straight from the oven. They were, without question, the best I’ve ever tasted.

Above the clouds for breakfast at Villa Borgo in Motovun

Feeling energized, we hopped back on our e-bikes. Today’s ride would cover 16 miles from Motovun to Kaštelir, with one scheduled stop early in the journey. A few miles into the ride, we met a local truffle hunter and his two skilled canine companions: Mina, an Italian water dog, and Roxy, a beagle. These dogs begin training when they are just a few months old — introduced to truffles early and rewarded with them until they develop an insatiable craving. Over time, they become experts at sniffing them out. Truffles grow anywhere from 3 to 18 inches beneath the ground and appear seemingly overnight. There are distinct seasons for black and white truffles; September marks the end of the black truffle season and the beginning of the far more lucrative white truffle season. White truffles can fetch an astonishing €3,000 to €6,000 per kilogram — nearly ten times the value of black truffles.

The truffle hunter with Mina and Roxy

During the hunt, the dogs were free to roam the forest floor, and the moment one began digging, the hunter would sprint over, pull the dog back, and finish the excavation with a small shovel. If he didn’t reach the spot in time, the dog would happily devour the prize. Watching the hunter’s enthusiasm and the dogs’ excitement was a delight. After an hour, Mina and Roxy had successfully unearthed both black and white truffles, and we continued on our way — this time equipped with headlamps for the tunnels along the Parenzana Trail.

Roxy found a white truffle

At our request, Mary asked our biking guide to allow more photo stops so we could appreciate the scenery. Although he did accommodate us to a degree, it still wasn’t quite as leisurely as we would have liked. We did pause before crossing a viaduct, where Mary led us through a “bridge ceremony.” Facing downstream, we symbolically released all the worries weighing us down, letting them flow away with the current. Then, turning upstream, we welcomed new intentions and positive aspirations into our hearts — a lovely and grounding ritual.

Cycling thru the vineyards along the Parenzana Trail

We arrived in Kaštelir at the home of a local woman, where we were invited into her kitchen for a hands-on pasta-making lesson. Using just three simple ingredients — flour, salt, and boiling water — we learned to make pljukanci, a traditional Istrian spindle-shaped pasta created by rolling the dough against the palm of the hand. The demonstration was humbling: our host shaped each pljukanci with lightning speed and perfect precision, while ours were far less uniform. Our freshly made pasta was served with a choice of rich red vegetable sauce or hearty beef stew. Alongside the meal, we enjoyed a generous charcuterie platter featuring prosciutto, two kinds of cheese, mushrooms, and olives. We also sampled several homemade liqueurs and schnapps, including an unforgettable limoncello Crema crafted from lemons grown just outside the house. It tasted like a lemon creamsicle — bright, creamy, and refreshing.

Explorer Chicks making pljukanci

After this sumptuous late lunch, we settled in for a three-hour drive to our lodging for the night: Hotel Degenija, just outside Plitvice Lakes National Park. Dinner was served late, nearly 9:00 PM, but it was worth the wait. I started with crispy spring rolls, followed by another excellent pork tenderloin dish, this time served over a bed of creamy mashed potatoes. Dessert was a moist and flavorful carrot cake. It was a late night and would be followed by an early morning — but it had been a day filled with unforgettable experiences, delicious food, and the timeless pleasures of travel.

Day 4 Plitvice Lakes National Park

We had a very early start this morning, meeting in the hotel lobby at 7 AM for the short drive to Plitvice Lakes National Park. Our group was among the first to enter the park, which allowed us to experience its tranquility before the crowds arrived. Although the forecast had threatened rain, we were fortunate—there was only about fifteen minutes of light drizzle in the morning, and at one point, the sun even broke through the clouds.

Entrance to Plitvice Lakes National Park

Plitvice Lakes National Park is an enchanting landscape of 16 crystalline lakes, each cascading into the next through a series of waterfalls. The region is rich in limestone, and the dissolved minerals give the water its remarkable turquoise and emerald hues. Over time, this sediment forms deposits of tufa—or travertine—the same material that shapes Mammoth Hot Springs in Yellowstone National Park. Mary, who has a degree in geology, was in her element here, enthusiastically explaining the geological processes that created this magical place.

The highest waterfall in Plitvice Lakes National Park

Most of the park’s trails are elevated boardwalks that protect the delicate landscape beneath. We explored both the upper and lower lake sections, crossing between them by boat. Plitvice had been the original inspiration for my fascination with Croatia, and it did not disappoint. We spent roughly four and a half hours wandering through its dreamlike scenery before heading to lunch at The Rustična Lodge.

Lunch was served outdoors beneath a pergola. I had ordered what was described as a burger, but the translation was somewhat lost—what arrived instead was a slice of bread topped with sausage links, accompanied by vegetables and creamy potatoes au gratin. Dessert was a highlight: delicate pancakes filled with fresh blackberries, which we could see growing in the garden beside our table. While the meal was delicious, it was also quite long, and by the end of the trip, we all agreed that on such an active, adventure-focused itinerary, we could have easily done without both a large lunch and a large dinner on the same day—especially on this day and on Day 6.

After lunch, we boarded a minibus and continued together as one group for the remainder of the trip. Our next destination was Starigrad, just outside Paklenica National Park, about an hour and a half away. A few rain showers accompanied us along the journey. Our accommodations that night were at Villa Vicko, which turned out to be my favorite lodging of the trip. My room was on the third floor and featured a balcony overlooking the Adriatic Sea. After checking in and dropping off my bags, I set out for a peaceful coastal walk before dinner.

View of the Adriatic Sea from my room at Villa Vicko
View of Starigrad Paklenica

We dined that evening at Dalmacija Restaurant. I started with a comforting fish soup and followed with fried calamari as my main course. This dinner was my least favorite of the trip. We were seated outside under a canopy just as bad weather rolled in, and to make matters worse, a group of smokers was seated nearby. I continue to be amazed by how prevalent smoking is in Europe. Mary tried to arrange an Uber to take us back to the hotel through the pouring rain, but none were available, so we decided to make a run for it. By the time we arrived back at the hotel—soaked through—it took three days for my Skechers boat shoes to fully dry. Naturally, about ten minutes after we returned, the rain stopped.

I spent the rest of the evening sitting on my terrace, listening to the rhythmic crash of the waves against the shore and editing photos. During dinner, Mary had informed us that our planned via ferrata climb for the following day had been canceled due to wet, slippery rocks and the threat of afternoon thunderstorms. While I was a little disappointed, she assured us that we would instead embark on a beautiful hike to a cave—an adventure I was now looking forward to.

Day 5 Paklenica National Park

We were treated to a rare luxury the next morning: a chance to sleep in, as we wouldn’t be meeting our guides until 9 AM. While we were eating, Mary messaged the group asking for our shoe sizes. I assumed it was for snorkeling gear for the following day, but to my surprise, it was for rock climbing shoes. Nevin and David, our guides for Paklenica National Park, had offered Mary an alternative plan to replace the canceled via ferrata: a morning of top-rope climbing followed by a hike—or the reverse, depending on the weather.

Heading into Paklenica National Park for some top-rope climbing

Nevin and David picked us up in two rugged Land Rover jeeps and drove us a few minutes up the road into Paklenica National Park, one of Europe’s premier rock climbing destinations. The towering limestone cliffs reminded me of Zion National Park—though instead of deep red sandstone, these cliffs gleamed white in the sunlight. Only Mary and and one other Explorer Chick had any prior rock climbing experience, but Nevin and David were wonderfully patient teachers, guiding us step by step. To everyone’s delight, each member of our group successfully reached the top—even two of the Explorer Chicks whom were afraid of heights. Most of us even tackled both climbing routes. The experience was incredibly empowering, made even more special by the enthusiastic cheers and encouragement from our fellow Explorer Chicks.

Climbing up
Rappelling down

After the climbing portion of our adventure, we paused for a quick lunch of delicious sandwiches prepared by the hotel, then set off on what we believed would be a four-mile round-trip hike. Somewhere along the way, however, a detail was lost in translation—the hike turned out to be eight miles with about 1,800 feet of elevation gain. Despite the unexpected challenge, the scenery more than made up for it. The trail wound through dramatic landscapes and offered sweeping views, culminating at the charming Ramica Dvori mountain hut. There, we rewarded ourselves with warm apple strudel—a well-earned treat. For many in the group, the true highlight of the hike was meeting the hut’s resident cats and kittens. (I remained something of an outsider in that regard, as my enthusiasm for cats and dogs doesn’t quite match that of the others!)

Hiking in Paklenica National Park
Explorer Chicks in Paklenica National Park

The descent was far quicker, and by 5 PM we were back at the hotel to pick up three members of the group who sat out that day. We made a quick stop for gelato before continuing on to Zadar, about an hour away, where we checked into the Teatro Verdi Boutique Hotel for the night. For the next two evenings, we were on our own for dinner, though Mary and Ines provided plenty of excellent recommendations.

That night, a group of seven of us walked down to the waterfront to visit the Sea Organ before dinner. Installed in 2005, this fascinating musical art piece consists of a series of marble steps along the edge of the Adriatic. As waves push air through the pipes beneath the steps, they create hauntingly beautiful chords. The melody is constantly shifting, shaped by the rhythm and power of the sea itself. Sitting there at sunset, watching the sky turn gold and listening to nature’s ever-changing song, was a truly peaceful moment.

Sunset over the Adriatic Sea in Zadar
Zadar

We continued on to dinner at a local restaurant called 4Kantuna. Though we had been warned of a potential 20- to 45-minute wait, we were seated after just 12 minutes. I decided to share a prosciutto pizza with a fellow Explorer Chick, which was absolutely delicious, and I paired it with a refreshing peach bellini. Many people claim that the pizza in Croatia is even better than in Italy—and after that meal, I have to agree.

Day 6 Kornati National Park

The next morning we enjoyed a leisurely start, not meeting our speedboat guides until 9:30 AM. We divided into two boats. Our skipper, Tony, was a university student from Split, cheerful and full of local insight. Our journey took us through the shimmering waters of Kornati National Park, an archipelago of 89 islands—most of them privately owned. Historically, the islands were used primarily for sheep farming, and their stark, treeless landscapes reminded me of the bald mountains of Northern Ireland.

Cruising thru the islands of Kornati National Park

Our first stop was the island of Mana, where we had an hour to explore. Composed almost entirely of limestone, Mana is a rugged island with sparse vegetation and dramatic cliffs plunging into the sea. A small rocky beach offered a chance to swim, and scattered across the landscape were what appeared to be ancient ruins—though we later learned they were remnants of a 1959 film set for As the Sea Rages. After wandering the island, we circled it by boat to admire its towering sea cliffs and catch a glimpse of the “Man in the Rocks,” a natural formation reminiscent of New Hampshire’s famed Old Man of the Mountain.

Island of Mana
Views from Island of Mana

Our next stop was Kornat, the largest island in the park, where we were scheduled for lunch at Konoba Smok Vika. Unfortunately, what should have been a pleasant seaside meal turned into a two-and-a-half-hour ordeal that began eating away at our time for snorkeling and cliff jumping. Frustration grew as the service lagged. The meal began with an appetizer spread of sushi, seafood bites, and a charcuterie platter, but it was nearly an hour before the main course—an assortment of grilled lamb, beef, and sausage alongside a traditional baked fish—was served. In the interest of time, we skipped dessert, though we still shared a small lemon cake down by the dock to celebrate the 40th birthday of one of the Explorer Chicks.

Views from Kornat

Once we finally departed, spirits lifted as we sped toward a secluded island known for snorkeling and cliff jumping. Along the way, we were lucky enough to spot a few dolphins playing in the waves. Tony demonstrated the cliff jump for us before we all joined in. We ended our boat excursion farther south along the coast from Zadar, leaving us with just a one-hour drive to Split, where we would spend the next two nights at the charming Marul Hotel. Once again, dinner was on our own.

Cliff jumping in the Kornati islands

We arrived late in the evening and immediately set out for Split’s Old Town, which was dazzling under the night lights. After a short stroll through its narrow cobblestone streets, we were quickly seated at a cozy restaurant called Komodo. I enjoyed a delicious chicken salad—tender marinated grilled chicken served with mustard and citrus, fresh lettuce, cherry tomatoes, croutons, and a Caesar dressing dusted with prosciutto powder—paired with a refreshing Moscow mule. On our walk back to the hotel, we paused at the Croatian National Theater, where an outdoor concert was in full swing, the music echoing beautifully through the warm night air.

Old Town Split

Day 7 Split

Today marked my final full day with the Explorer Chick group. After breakfast, we met our kayak guide, Jerome, around 9 AM. Since our start time was a little later than usual, I took advantage of the quiet morning to wander through Split’s Old Town in the daylight, admiring its sunlit stone streets and early-morning bustle before the crowds arrived.

Gregory of Nin (Bishop Grgur Ninski) statue outside Old Town
Old Town Split

A short drive brought us to Marina Spinut, where we launched our tandem kayaks. I was paired with Mary, our Explorer Chick guide — I paddled in the front, and she steered from the back. Together, we kayaked about seven miles round-trip across the sparkling Adriatic to Marjan Park Beach and back. At the park, we had the chance to cliff jump and swim in the clear turquoise water.

Kayaking in the Adriatic Sea along the shore of Split
View from the beach in Split

Back at the marina, our guides had arranged a delightful picnic lunch: flaky phyllo pastries filled with meat, cheese, or cherries, accompanied by a simple plate of olives. With the structured part of our day complete, we had the rest of the afternoon free.

Picnic lunch after kayaking

Back at the hotel, I decided to keep exploring, heading down to the port area, where ferries and cruise ships bobbed gently in the harbor. With a cone of gelato in hand, I found a shady bench and watched the world go by. Over the course of the trip, I had sampled seven flavors of gelato and sorbet — tiramisu, lemon, lemon pie, peppermint, salted caramel, Nutella, and lavender. Of them all, lemon was my favorite: crisp, cool, and wonderfully refreshing in the summer sun.

Later, I met up with another Explorer Chick, and together we continued exploring the Old Town. We followed a steep, winding path uphill, suspecting it might lead to a vantage point — and we were right. The climb rewarded us with sweeping panoramic views of Split, the shimmering Adriatic stretching far into the horizon. To my amusement, we realized the overlook was part of Marjan Park, the very same area we had visited earlier that day by kayak. We returned to the hotel around 4:30 PM, leaving just enough time to shower and reorganize my luggage before our farewell gathering. Mary had jokingly — but proudly — awarded me both the “Lightest Packer” and the “Most Punctual” titles for the trip.

View from Marjan Park looking down on Split

At 6:30 PM, we gathered on the hotel patio for a farewell cocktail hour, complete with wine, Prosecco, beer, and sparkling water. As the sun dipped below the rooftops, we went around the circle, each sharing a “rose,” a “bud,” and a “thorn” from the trip. My “rose” — the highlight of my experience — was our unforgettable visit to Plitvice National Park. My “bud” — something I discovered I enjoyed and hope to pursue further — was rock climbing. And my “thorn” — a personal challenge I overcame — was the anxiety of traveling alone.

Our final dinner together was at Ćiri Biri Bela, and it turned out to be my favorite meal of the trip. The table was covered with a delicious assortment of tapas — though I couldn’t name everything we tried, I particularly loved the bacon-wrapped dates. We dined on the terrace next to a lively bachelorette party and were serenaded by a talented singer whose repertoire flowed effortlessly between Croatian ballads and familiar American tunes.

When we returned to the hotel that evening, it was time for goodbyes. Our group would scatter in different directions the next day: nine Explorer Chicks would fly home to the United States, two planned to spend an extra day in Split, and another Explorer Chick (Debbie) and I were heading south by bus to Dubrovnik. Mary, ever the adventurer, would stay in Split for one more day before making her way back to Zagreb to lead another Explorer Chick Croatia trip starting Tuesday. It was a bittersweet end to an incredible journey — one filled with new friendships, shared challenges, and countless unforgettable moments.

Day 8 Traveling to Dubrovnik

Debbie and I met up after breakfast and made our way down to the port, where we caught our 10:30 AM Flixbus to Dubrovnik. We had purchased our tickets separately, so we were assigned seats apart from one another — Debbie ended up on the upper deck, while I was seated on the lower deck aisle, which unfortunately made it difficult to capture any photos of the stunning mountain scenery along the way.

About two hours into the journey, we stopped for a 20-minute break in Raba. By law, tour bus drivers in Croatia must take a 20- to 30-minute rest after every two hours of driving. During our stop, one passenger failed to return in time, and the bus departed without him. To everyone’s surprise, he managed to hitch a ride and catch up with us about 15 minutes later — only for a heated argument to break out between him and the driver once he reboarded.

View from the rest area along the coast between Split and Dubrovnik

One of the highlights of the drive was crossing the Pelješac Bridge, a major infrastructure project completed in 2022. The bridge links mainland Croatia with the Pelješac Peninsula, eliminating the need to pass through Bosnia and Herzegovina — a detour that previously required border control checks and added significant time to the journey from Split to Dubrovnik.

Obscured view of the Pelješac Bridge from the bus

We arrived ahead of schedule at Dubrovnik’s main bus terminal. Since Debbie and I were staying in different parts of the city, we parted ways to catch separate local buses. I had already purchased the Dubrovnik Pass, which included public transportation as well as entry to numerous museums and discounts on local attractions. From the stop across the street from the terminal, I took the 1A bus to the Pile Gate, the main entrance to Dubrovnik’s Old Town, my home for the next 4 nights

Pile Gate – the entrance to the walled city of Dubrovnik