My 2025 Ireland hiking tours were slated to start in Belfast, the capital city of Northern Ireland (United Kingdom), and finish in Dublin, the capital of the Republic of Ireland. I like to arrive in a foreign country a few days early if I am on a scheduled tour to allow for any potential travel delays. For this trip, I chose to explore Belfast before my tours began. The main reason was because I really wanted to visit Titanic Belfast, but also, I had a half day at the end of the trip to explore Dublin.
Day 1 Dublin to Belfast
My direct flight from Boston to Dublin arrived on time around 8:30 AM. I had pre-booked a seat on the 9:50 AM Dublin Express #785 bus to Belfast, Northern Ireland. The weather in Dublin was clear and breezy, though the skies grew more overcast as we traveled north – thankfully, there was no rain. The bus dropped us off on Upper Queen Street at 11:50 AM, just a block from the stately Belfast City Hall. Before the trip, I had applied for the new UK electronic travel authorization, which became mandatory as of January 8, 2025. The process was simple – I received approval within minutes of applying. The ETA cost about $12 and is valid for three years, digitally linked to my passport. Although it was never checked while I was in Northern Ireland, I had read that not having it during a medical or police emergency could result in a fine. From the drop off point, I walked just over a mile to my Airbnb located in Belfast’s East Quarter, just over the River Lagan.
After a short rest, I set off east along Newtownards Road to visit C.S. Lewis Square in the East Quarter. Along the way, I passed many striking murals – many commemorating either The Troubles or the Titanic. C.S. Lewis Square is a small but charming park, honoring Belfast born author C. S. Lewis, best known for the Chronicles of Narnia. Scattered throughout the square are seven bronze sculptures, representing characters and symbols from his beloved books: the stone table, the wardrobe, the white witch, Aslan, Mr. and Mrs. Beaver, Mr. Tumnus, and Maugrim.
After capturing some photos, I retraced my steps back past my Airbnb, across the River Lagan, and continued on toward the Cathedral Quarter. This vibrant neighborhood is centered around Belfast Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral Church of Saint Anne – a stunning Romanesque structure that has stood for over a century. I paid a modest entry fee to explore its beautiful interior, admiring the stained glass windows and elegant architecture. From there, I made my way toward Belfast City Hall, pausing to wander through the memorial garden and visit the Titanic Memorial before heading back to my Airbnb for the evening.
Day 2 Belfast
Before arriving in Ireland, I reserved an early riser ticket (9:30 AM) for Titanic Belfast, planning to make the most of my free day in the city. I set out from my Airbnb and followed the River Lagan north for about a mile. This stretch, known as the Maritime Mile is part of Belfast’s ongoing revitalization, and it’s genuinely impressive – clean, scenic, and dotted with points of interest. One of the first landmarks I encountered was a large stained glass panel commemorating the television series Game of Thrones. There are six such panels placed throughout the area, each depicting a pivotal moment from the show; I managed to find four. Shortly after, I came across The Kit, a striking 40 foot bronze sculpture of the Titanic designed to resemble a giant Airfix model kit. Installed in 2009, it stands near the very location where the Titanic was built. Next on the route was the SS Nomadic, the last remaining White Star Line vessel, and the original tender ship to the Titanic.
Finally, I reached the centerpiece of my morning: Titanic Belfast. This exhibition is both architecturally, stunning and intellectually rich, tracing the history of Belfast and the full arc of the Titanic story – from its conception and construction to its ill-fated maiden voyage, and the legacy that followed. I spent over two hours immersed in the experience, which I found exceptionally well-curated and engaging.
After the exhibition, I continued exploring the Maritime Mile, passing the original Titanic slipways before reaching the Great Light – one of the largest lighthouse optics ever built. Now 130 years old, it stands 21 feet tall and weighs 10 tons, a fascinating piece of maritime history. My final stop along the waterfront was HMS Caroline, the last known surviving warship from the 1960 Battle of Jutland – one of the most significant naval battles in history.
I continued my walk through a fairly desolate industrial area to reach the Titanic Quarter train station. I boarded the train bound for Botanic and the Queen‘s Quarter, the southernmost part of the city. This area is home to Queen’s University, the Botanic Gardens, and the Ulster Museum. The gardens are compact, but charming, with students lounging on the lawns. A large Victorian greenhouse anchors the space, and adjacent Queen’s University buildings are both historic and beautiful. The Ulster Museum, free to the public and reminiscent of the Smithsonian museums in the US was a highlight. I especially enjoyed the natural history exhibit and the gallery dedicated to The Troubles. I stopped at the museum café for a delicious ham and cheese toastie paired with a fresh orzo salad for lunch.
My final destination for the day was Crumlin Road Gaol (jail), a 2.2 mile walk from the museum. Over 25,000 prisoners passed through this Victorian era prison during its 150 years of operation. Closed in 1996 and now carefully restored, it functions as a visitor attraction and a conference venue. The self-guided tour took me through a subterranean tunnel to the old courthouse, as well as the holding cells, C – wing, the execution chamber, and the Matron’s House.
As I made my way back to my Airbnb, I stopped just before crossing the River Lagan to photograph the Salmon of Knowledge – known affectionately by locals as “The Big Fish.“ Created by artist John Kindness in 1999, the sculpture celebrates the River Lagan’s regeneration and is covered in ceramic tiles illustrating scenes from Belfast History. The following day I would meet my first Wilderness Ireland hiking group for the start of The Northern Coast Hiking Tour – a new adventure on the horizon.
